What Really Happens to Unsold Clothes?
Here’s an eye opening statistic. About 30% of the clothes produced each season are never sold. You may think, so what? Of course not every piece becomes the next Instagram sensation or gets on the seasonal ‘must-have’ list.
But here’s the problem. Unsold clothes need to be disposed of, whether it’s selling them on massive discount or worse, throwing them away. It is estimated that the fashion industry produces 92 million tons of textile waste every year. Every second, one garbage truck of textiles is either dumped in a landfill or burned.
As such, textile pollution has become a huge problem, and one big factor is the fate of unsold clothes. So let’s dive into why there are so many unsold clothes, what happens to them right now, and what solutions are available for greener, more sustainable outcomes.
What Happens to Unsold Clothes?
Now that we know why there are so many unsold clothes, let’s talk about the more pressing issue: what happens to them?
Discount Stores
The first stop is usually discount stores, since brands will try to make whatever money the can with it. These stores, like Marshall’s and Winners, thrive on buying surplus stock at a fraction of the cost and selling it at discounted prices. It’s a win-win for bargain hunters and retailers looking to recoup some losses.
Discount stores serve an essential role in the retail ecosystem by providing an outlet for moving excess inventory. However, this practice can perpetuate the cycle of overproduction by creating a secondary market where unsold goods are offloaded cheaply. This can lead to consumers expecting discounts from surplus clothing, further complicating inventory management for primary retailers and worsening the problem.
Donation
Some unsold clothes are donated to charities and foundations. It sounds like a noble solution, but it’s not without its problems. Charities can be overwhelmed by the sheer volume of donations, leading to logistical challenges and, sometimes, the unfortunate need to discard excess items. Plus, not all donated clothing is suitable for those in need, meaning a portion might still end up in landfills.
Disposal
In 2017, it was revealed that H&M was burning up to 12 tonnes of clothes per year since 2013. And that is the harsh reality faced by a significant amount of unsold clothing. Unsold garments are often incinerated or sent to landfills, contributing to the growing problem of textile waste. Incineration releases harmful pollutants into the air, posing environmental and health risks, while landfills overflow with non-biodegradable fabrics that can take decades to decompose. This is why the fashion industry accounts for up to 8% of global carbon emissions. It is a stark reminder of how the industry must change.
Why There’s So Much Waste in the Fashion Industry
The simple answer to why there’s so much unsold clothes is that there is overproduction. But why is there overproduction? Let’s find out.
The Fashion Industry Has an Overproduction Problem.
The obvious answer is that there are just way too many clothes being produced in the world right now. In 2014, the number of garments produced annually broke through 100 billion for the first time in history. That’s nearly 14 pieces of clothing for every person in the world.
But why make so many clothes to begin with? Isn’t it bad for business to make more than you can sell? The problem is that fashion is unbelievably fickle. It can be sometimes nearly impossible to predict consumer demand. What’s hot one moment can be out the next. Seasonal trends drive the industry, creating a cycle where clothes quickly become outdated. Now, with fast fashion, this process has been put on overdrive.
Today, brands churn out collections at a breakneck pace, aiming to keep up with fast fashion’s insatiable appetite. Thousands of styles are pushed out not only seasonally, but on a daily basis. There is a huge pressure in the market to stay relevant and meet the constant demand for newness. The result? An overwhelming surplus of clothing that never sees the light of day.
When Destroying is Better for Business
It’s not just fast fashion brands overproducing excess inventory that are causing problems. Luxury brands are also infamous for destroying unsold stock, not even allowing them to go into discount stores.
For instance, in 2018, Burberry was found to have destroyed more than 90 million pounds worth of goods over a period of five years. And they are far from alone. Many luxury brands regularly dispose of excess inventory. So why do this? Aren’t they throwing away value?
Actually, luxury brands are incentivized to destroy unsold stock to preserve their exclusivity and market value, rather than offering these items at discounted prices, which could potentially dilute their brand's prestige. This practice not only safeguards their status symbol but also prevents their products from entering the "grey market," where genuine luxury goods can be resold by unauthorized sellers at lower prices. For instance, Richemont, owners of Cartier, once destroyed over £400 million worth of watches to avoid their sale through unregulated channels.
Moreover, there are financial benefits for luxury brands to dispose of unsold inventory. In the US, brands may receive significant tax rebates by destroying unsold goods under customs oversight—a process known as "drawback." This often makes it financially more viable to destroy the goods rather than spend on repurposing or recycling them.
Sustainable Solutions for the Clothing Industry
As it stands, there are too many clothing being produced, and they cause a huge environmental problem.
So what’s a better way forward from here?
Recycling
One way to tackle the surplus clothing problem is through recycling. This involves breaking down textiles into raw materials that can be reused to create new fabrics.
Recycling textiles can help reduce waste and conserve resources. Mechanical recycling involves shredding fabrics into fibers that can be spun into new yarns, while chemical recycling breaks down fibers into their chemical components for reuse. However, challenges such as mixed fiber content and contaminants can make recycling difficult. Innovative solutions, like textile-to-textile recycling systems, are being developed to address these issues and improve recycling efficiency.
While it’s a step in the right direction, recycling textiles is complex and not always feasible for all types of fabric. Which leads us to the next solution.
Upcycling
Upcycling takes recycling a step further by transforming existing garments into new pieces. It’s a creative way to repurpose clothes that would otherwise go to waste without having to turn them into raw materials. Designers and DIY enthusiasts alike are embracing upcycling, turning old shirts into trendy tops or jeans into stylish bags. It’s not only a sustainable solution, but it encourages a culture of creativity.
Brands like Reformation and Patagonia have embraced upcycling as part of their sustainability initiatives, offering consumers stylish and eco-friendly options.
But here’s the problem with upcycling and recycling. Against the tidal wave of retail fashion, it’s a drop in a bucket. Only an estimated 1% of all post-consumer garments are recycled. For upcycling, a relatively new trend, the numbers are even more miniscule. So while they are great solutions, we need something more fundamental that will cause a shift in the industry.
Raising Awareness
Ultimately, these brands are overproducing clothing because that’s what they think consumers want. Instead, if enough of them were more mindful of how their buying habits are destroying the planet, that could meaningfully reduce the demand for overproduction.
This means educating consumers about the environmental and social consequences of their purchases to encourage more thoughtful and sustainable shopping habits. Like thinking twice before making a purchase, opting for quality over quantity, and supporting brands that prioritize sustainability.
Initiatives like Fashion Revolution’s #WhoMadeMyClothes campaign have successfully raised awareness and prompted consumers to demand greater transparency from brands.
And it’s not just that this will push brands to limit waste and be more sustainable in their practices to attract more consumers. Pushing awareness can lead to legislation that enforces stricter environmental regulations on the fashion industry, which in turn can result in huge systemic change.
Change Starts With You
So now you know. Nearly one third of all clothing never leave the shelves, contributing to an astronomical amount of textile waste per year. These fashion leftovers often end up incinerated or buried in landfills, leaving a hefty carbon footprint in their wake.
What's the fix? We can give these garments a second chance through recycling and upcycling, turning yesterday's trends into today's treasures. Yet, those are just band-aid solutions.
Real change starts with us, the shoppers. By choosing quality over quantity and supporting brands that value transparency and sustainability, we can nudge the industry towards better practices. So, when you next hit the stores, remember that your choices can influence a more responsible fashion future.
And speaking of quality over quantity, if you're looking for men's underwear, instead of buying a cheap pack of three that will become trash in no time, get a durable and timeless boxer brief with Manmade. You'll be taking that step forward to saving the planet from textile waste, plus you'll feel damn good.